The Bangles said to "Walk Like An Egyptian." While in Egypt, I quickly learned to "run like an Egyptian," as this is the only way to cross a street without being hit by a car. If crosswalks, stoplights, and stop signs exist here, I was unaware of them and so was every other driver on the road. For this reason among others, my friends and I took taxis everywhere we went in Alexandria.
Egypt is completely different from any place I've ever seen. This African nation is populated by over 80 million people (95% living along the Nile, 20 million in Cairo alone.) I think it is safe to say that more people drive here than any other country I have visited this summer. This is evident by the numerous car dealerships, auto shops, and visible signs of pollution. Other means of transportation include the public bus and the tram system, which looks like it was built in another era. I much prefer to see the city from the comfort of a non-air conditioned cab, even though traffic tends to come to a standstill when everyone gets stuck behind a slow donkey cart or horse-drawn carriage.
When we arrived in Alexandria, I realized immediately that I had left Europe behind. I looked around and saw streets crowded with vehicles, beautiful Arabic words on buildings and advertisements, women dressed conservatively, and few American and European tourists. I knew right away that I was in Africa.
Alexandria wins the award for the city with the greatest historical importance and the least to show for it. The historical sights are small in quantity and many of the greatest ones were lost in antiquity or the rising sea. On the first day, I visited the Catacombs of Kom ash-Shuqqafa. The catacombs are the largest known Roman burial site in Egypt and were discovered by accident in 1900 when a donkey disappeared into the ground. Bonnie, Katie, and I climbed down into the tomb just as a huge tour group left, so we had the place to ourselves. I felt like Indiana Jones as I walked across the wooden planks and hopped from stone to stone in the flooded and dimly lit chambers.
The three of us went to the Carrefour City Center Mall, because I needed more conservative clothes to wear in Egypt and Morocco. It was interesting to see how the mannequins were dressed differently than they are at home, and walking through the supermarket was a cultural experience in itself. Bonnie and I also went to the Royal Jewelry Museum, where we admired the glitzy collection of family heirlooms that belonged to Farouk, the last king of Egypt.
Since we traveled so much by taxi, I came to know a couple of the cab drivers on a first name basis. First there was Uncle Khamis, with his silvery hair and moustache. He kept a black leather guest book under the passenger seat. We flipped through its pages, which were filled with notes of appreciation in every language you can imagine. Naturally, we added our own sentiments. I signed my off with a "Go Frogs!" And even though he rear-ended another vehicle, Khamis was a very good driver.
Next, there was Shabban who had a smile that matched the color of his eyes. Before taking us to the jewelry museum, we stopped for coffee at a place on the water called The Mermaid. The menu was in Arabic so when I tried to order "breakfast food" the waiter brought out four pieces of cake. Mmmm....the breakfast of champions. Shabban had a lot to say about life in Egypt. He expressed his frustrations about the economic conditions, saying "Where does all the money go? We have everything we need--petrol, the Suez Canal, cotton." He complained about rising prices and high taxes. He said there were too many "Ali Babas" in Egypt. I'm not entirely sure what he meant by that, but I have a feeling it had to do with the huge disparity between the rich and poor. He showed us a picture of his five year-old daughter and said he had two more kids at home. He also helped me with my Arabic pronunciation. One thing I will never forget is when I sat inside his light blue taxi, and tried to point out a destination in my travel book. He told me, "close the book and open your heart," insisting this was the only way to see the real Egypt.
On our last night in Alexandria, I went to dinner at the Greek Club with Kristina, Katie, and Bonnie. We snacked on delicious warm bread, olive oil, and hummus. Bonnie and I ordered a sea bass from the fish display and they brought it out grilled with lemon, olive oil, and oregano. The fish was one of the best I've ever tasted and it was probably big enough to feed a family of four. From our table on the second floor of the restaurant I could see fishing boats in the bay, highlighted by the glowing lights of Alexandria. Behind me was a seawall crowded with families flying their plastic kites. As we were leaving the restaurant, our waiter chased us down the stairs with a fish in hand. "Don't forget your take away fish." Apparently we accidentally ordered an extra fish to go, so we ended up giving it to Shabban.
Cairo
I went on my first overnight SAS trip to Cairo. We stayed in a really nice hotel called the Mena House Oberoi, which is the closest in proximity to the pyramids. On our first day we visited the Egyptian Museum which is awesome and impossible to see in just one day. I must have spent a solid five minutes staring at the mask of Tutankhamen in complete disbelief. We traveled to Saqqara and visited Zoser's Funerary Complex where I took pictures in front of the Step Pyramid. At night we went to the sound-and-light show at the Great Pyramids. This was an entirely cheesy performance complete with a narrated voice for the Sphinx and neon green laser lights. But I attempted to look beyond this spectacle and instead memorize the magnificent outline of the three pyramids. Gazing up at the stars and watching the silhouette of a camel in the far distance, I tried to envision what the place looked like thousands of years ago.
The next morning we arose at 4:15 am and traveled by bus to the Pyramids of Giza. As I watched the sun slowly peak over the pyramids, I realized that I was watching the same sunrise that Egyptians have been watching for thousands of years. It was one of the most incredible things I've seen in my life. I couldn't help but feel a strong connection to humanity and history. God is so great, and I'm thankful for the amazing things he has shown me every day.
Also at Giza-- I rode a camel which was absolutely thrilling, and then the boy who led us toward the pyramids demanded extra baksheesh for his crummy picture-taking skills. Next, we visited the market place where I bargained with local vendors and turned down marriage proposals. Before leaving Cairo, we ate lunch on a Nile River cruise, while being entertained by a belly dancer, live band, and whirling dervish.
On the bus ride home, I gazed out the window at the thousands of gray and tattered brick homes stacked on top of each other. Everything in the city was covered in a visible layer of soot and smog. A former irrigation canal was piled with trash, polluted water, stray cats, and the occasional child or two playing nearby. The signs of overpopulation and extreme poverty were unavoidable.
...
Back in Alexandria, I started to reflect on the things I saw and the people I met during my 5 day visit. Although there were obvious feelings of frustration, disappointment, and uncertainty toward the current economic and political situation, I never once detected a sense of hopelessness. The Egyptians are a proud people-- filled with a love for their history and traditions. The new Bibliotheca Alexandrina shows Alexandria's efforts to restore itself to the wondrous city that it once was. I visited this modern marvel three times during my stay. As I walked through the rows upon rows of books and art exhibitions, I couldn't help but feel hopeful and optimistic about Egypt's future.
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