02 July 2013

A Night Trek on Mount Batur

My alarm went off at 1:45 am. I rolled out of bed and found my way out of the mosquito net in record time, especially for someone who had just gotten five hours of sleep. I got dressed, slipped on my hiking shoes, ate a couple of biscuits and washed them down with an iced Nescafe that I had bought from the Circle K down the street. At 2 am, a driver arrived at the homestay to transport me and two others to the foot of Mount Batur in Kintamani, which is about an hour from Ubud. The German couple I was traveling with fell asleep during the car ride, but I was much too excited to shut an eye. Riding shotgun, I chatted with our driver and gripped the armrest in fear each time a stray dog ran into the road, which was about once every kilometer. 

We arrived around 3 am, met our trekking guide (a sixteen year old high school student) and began to follow her lead up the active volcano, with our flashlights in hand. We climbed at a quick and steady pace. The terrain was still moist from the recent rainfall, and I had to use my hands several times to catch myself when the gravel-like volcanic rock slipped under my feet. But it was a fairly easy hike, only taking us one and a half hours to complete 1700 meters. 

Once we emerged from the layer of fog that surrounded the two calderas, we were welcomed with a blanket of a thousand stars--the brightest I'd ever seen. Our group of four were the first ones to reach the summit, arriving an hour before the sun, so we sat and waited in the cool mountain air. I spent that time enjoying the silent stillness. I said a quick prayer, thanking God for the many opportunities I've experienced over the course of my travels. And sitting there, dangling my feet over what felt like the edge of the world paradise, counting my blessings on shooting stars, I certainly felt like the luckiest girl in the world.

{the first signs of daylight}
{prayer offerings on top of the volcano} 
{it's possible to see the ocean from this view point on a clear day} 
{beginning the steady descent into "the clouds"}

Advice for hiking Mount Batur:
-Book the tour through a reputable company. For safety reasons, visitors are not allowed to complete the sunrise trek without a local guide. There are several tour companies that offer similar packages, but make sure you're getting exactly what is advertised. I say this because I wasn't 100% satisfied with the booking I made. While I can't recommend that company, I've was pleased with another tour I did with this one, and they also offer a Batur trek.
-Bring your own flashlight or headlamp. I borrowed one from my homestay and the light was so dim that it barely covered the area around both my feet. Be safe and bring your own.
-Wear layers. You might work up a sweat trekking uphill, but it's gets cold once you reach the top, and it can feel like a long wait for sunrise if you're wearing shorts.
-Bring a backpack or small bag to secure your loose items and free up your hand for the climbs. I thought the pockets in my jacket would be enough space to hold everything I needed, but I ended up wishing I had worn a rucksack.
-Pack bottled water. This may be provided depending on who you booked the hike through, but it's a good idea to bring some with you just in case. Same goes for snacks.
-Don't leave your good camera at home. The lighting and visibility can vary greatly at the peak, and you'll definitely want more than just your phone to capture the sunrise. 
-Ask your guide to take you to highest vantage point. Most groups will stop at the lower vantage point, but there's another one just 25 minutes up the slope. All you have to do is ask your guide.

23 June 2013

The Sacred Monkey Forest

It's impossible to visit Ubud without hearing about the Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary. It's one of the major tourist attractions, and it's easily found at the end of one of the main crossroads in town, appropriately named Jalan Wanara Wana (Monkey Forest Rd). One morning, I was visiting all the local shops on Monkey Forest Road when I reached the end of the street and decided to wander into the forest on my own. What I thought would be a 30 minute pit stop during my shopping day, turned into three or four hours of exploring.


The monkeys found in the Monkey Forest of Padangtegal are long-tailed macaques. There are four different troops that call the forest their home, creating a community of more than 600 monkeys, a population that has tripled since 2006. 

Check out those teeth! The macaques are beautiful animals, but they will bite or scratch humans if they are provoked. Here are a few safety tips to remember when visiting the Monkey Forest:

-Resist the temptation to feed the monkeys. Locals will try to sell you fruit outside of the entrances. Realize that you're putting yourself at risk if you choose to feed the monkeys. Never feed them peanuts, chips, candy or other snack foods which can cause serious harm to their health.
-Don't tease or try to touch the monkeys. Provoking them will only cause them to feel threatened and increase your likelihood of being harmed.
-Don't initiate a staring contest. Prolonged eye contact is considered a threat to macaques.
-Keep a close eye on children. Don't allow them to play near water or feeding areas.
-Don't carry loose items with you. Keys, sunglasses, plastic water bottles and other belongings should be kept securely in a backpack. It's not uncommon for tourists to have their loose belongings snatched by monkeys.
-Ask a staff member for help. The Wenara Wana staff members are easy to identify by their green uniforms. They'll be able to help you with directions, answer questions about the monkeys and let you know when and where the next feeding will be. You should also seek their assistance if one of your belongings is taken by a monkey or if you've been injured.
The Balinese have a love-hate relationship with the macaques. In Balinese Hinduism, monkeys can embody both positive and negative forces. When they are found raiding tourist shops or crop fields, they are considered pests. But in the form of a Barong, monkeys are known to guard sacred holy temples from evil spirits, which is why the macaques in the Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary are revered and protected by the local people. 

During my visit to the Monkey Forest, my embarrassing sense of direction and cat-like curiosity led me off the paved pathways. I somehow managed to get lost even with the brochure map in hand. I crossed over a stream on a bamboo bridge and passed decorated shrines and temples until I reached the forest's edge and was standing at rice field. A farmer walked by with two children and a dog in tow. I waved and kept wandering.



I continued on a trail that went downhill toward the sound of trickling water. When I reached the bottom, there was an unmarked cave with basket offerings and a running fountain. It looked like a place of religious significance, but I couldn't find it anywhere on my map and there was no sign or other tourists around to consult. I desperately wanted to know what it was, so I cautiously climbed the steps, looking over my shoulder to see if I was being watched. I poked my head inside the narrow entrance, but couldn't see past a few feet. It was pitch black. Although I'm ordinarily up for a good caving adventure, I retreated this time. I wasn't about to explore an unknown cave without a flashlight, knowing its cultural importance and having someone aware that I was down there on my own. I guess it will remain a mystery until my next visit.


If you're visiting Ubud, I highly recommend checking out the Monkey Forest. It's open daily from 8:30am-6pm, and only costs about $3 USD. Every visitor is sure to find something memorable whether it's the playful macaques, beautiful temple architecture, flora and fauna, tranquil streams or mysterious caves.

13 June 2013

Catching Up

Where to begin?

This is my thought every time someone asks me to tell them about my travels abroad. It's also the question I ponder during each attempt I've made to write a blog post since coming home. There are still many stories I want to share about Australia and Indonesia, but they'll have to wait for now. I've been busy lately catching up with:
  • my family and friends
  • world news and current events
  • the latest iPhone apps and hashtag trends
  • my reading list and the recent movies I missed.
I also feel the need to catch up to my peers, as most of them are already a year into their careers. Between work, weddings and job interviews, this summer is already going by quicker than I'd like it to. I'm amazed at how swiftly I've rejoined the fast-paced American lifestyle. For every item I cross off my to do list, I add three more. Catching up can be exhausting, but I've got a new sense of direction and big dreams to chase. I don't know how long it will take me to reach them, but I'm excited to begin the journey.


{I found this quote on Pinterest. Does anyone know who wrote it?}